Wednesday, October 29, 2008

California Dreamin' continued...

We had to traverse California to get from King's Canyon to Pinnacles National Monument. We bought the most enormous, luscious peaches - and grapes - at a roadside stall to munch on as we drove - and drove. We traversed some completely over-worked agricultural areas, hot, dry and the wind was whipping up huge dust-storms. As if this wasn't depressing enough, we then passed alongside Dairy feed lots, where all the poor animals are crowded into dusty, barren sheds, no grass to eat. They are fed out hay. These were really awful, enough to put you off dairy products for life. However, shortly thereafter we decided we needed a pick-me-up and chose icecream! Well, we picked the wrong place. The staff were sullen, the place dirty - and of course the icecream wasn't up to NZ standards.

Next, my navigational skills were sorely tested. The road I had been following suddenly disappeared completely, all we could see were notices indicating the area ahead was closed. The people we stopped to ask the way couldn't understand English, so in the end we had to back-track several miles, and I almost sent Rob south on a huge interstate road instead of north! Arrggh.

After a long, taxing day we finally arrived at our campground as the sun went down, but we couldn't understand the system. All the sites seemed vacant, but they had reserved signs on them - all except the ones coverd in thistles!! In the end we thought too bad, and just put the tent up on a choice site, ignoring the reserved sign. Thank goodness no-one came and booted us out in the middle of the night.

The next day made up for everything. Pinnacles was a fascinating area, and our hike started off through a cave where we saw bats up on the ceiling. We climbed up through formidable rock formations and had to cope with some scarily steep stretches. Our efforts were rewarded by seeing the extremely rare Condor - he even flew right over our heads. We only saw two other people - it seems to us that every hiking area in the States is deserted in the autumn.

Saturday, October 25, 2008

California Dreamin'

Have had a fantastic time in the California Dreamin' part of our trip, spent 8 days in our tarptent which served us well - even though we camped one night at over 9,000 feet and it snowed. We froze our butts off, but thank goodness for good NZ merino clothes - probably saved our lives!! We woke to a white world, stunningly beautiful, and climbed to over 10,000 feet in the snow - not sure if this was to keep warm or because we are mad. The tops were going to be untenable, so we had to return to the slightly lower climes.

Mono Lake was as lovely as we remembered it, and we had a couple of recovery days there. The Tioga Pass is amazing, on the way back over we spent ages just admiring the views and taking a zillion photos.

The road to Kings Canyon was seriously unbelievable, fantastic drop-offs one side, towering cliffs on the other. We shouldered packs again, and headed for our campsite. Just as we reached it, Rob turned to me and said "there's a bear and I'm not joking". Coming towards us on the trail was a pretty big brown bear, and it was so scary that the chance to get the photo of a lifetime passed me by! We hollered and biffed rocks, Rob even bravely advanced on the beast, and with a disdainful look he finally lumbered away. It was really really hard to sleep that night, and a couple of other campers were so spooked later the same evening that they came and camped right beside us for a bit of security.













On the way out next day I had my camera at the ready, and I bravely went in the lead. Next minute I am turning to Rob and saying "there's a bear and I'm not joking". Sure enough, a beautiful light brown bear wandered across the trail - but behind her were two cubs. This was looking bad - she saw us and got herself between us and the cubs, then as we tried to continue she came down a log towards us. I had the camera poised, but as she advanced Rob pushed me back along the track, ruining my second chance at a photo of a lifetime - but possibly saving my life so I'll forgive him.